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April 2009
APRIL 29: UNDERSTANDABLE, BECAUSE CAFFEINE IS SO DANGEROUS ... I have cut back on beer in recent months for several reasons. One, I believe only bad things can happen when people become incredibly drunk. Words can't be taken back, people think they're tougher than they are, judgment becomes clouded. Two, I've dropped 13 pounds (6 kilograms) since I got here, and drinking less beer has played a role. Three, not drinking so much means I'm saving money. Or so you would think. Last Friday I was with co-workers at the local Wabar enjoying their fried potato basket (that would be tater tots, french fries, waffle fries ... have I mentioned I've lost weight?) and their tall beers. Now, one-third of fried potatoes does not a meal make, and I knew that I didn't eat enough to build enough alcohol tolerance. So after a tall one, I was done. Not drunk -- just done with the beer. But I was thirsty, so I asked for a Coke. Now seems a good enough time to show you how much beer goes into a glass, and how much Coke you get with one order.
A beer that fills the glass on the right costs 3,000 won. The thimble on the left that looks rather similar to a can of Coke costs 3,000 won. So there is your lesson. Make wise economic choices. Drink more beer. Questions or comments? Email me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. Yesterday was my sixth anniversary of landing in Incheon International Airport. The six-month anniversary is a noteworthy one for many foreign teachers, because the contracts last one year (although I don't know, technically, my start date, although my guess is October 28 because that's when I started observing classes). A little more than a month ago, a fellow teacher told me about the milestone. The teacher had been told by another teacher that at the six-month mark, foreign teachers here just hate everything about South Korea and want to leave. It's nothing against the country; they just get sick of everything and miss home. The teacher who relayed this story told me that he, too, felt that way after six months (but got over it and will leave with fond memories). I've hit the mark, have no regrets about coming (although of course I miss home) and, as things stand now, I hope to spend another year here. Meanwhile, I'll mark this occasion by employing a teaching tool many English as a Second Language teachers use: The K-W-L chart. It stands for what you know, what you want to know, and what you've learned. I'll adjust mine to what I already knew about Korea, what I want to know and do, and what I've learned. The list is incomplete, but hey, I gave myself short notice. WHAT I ALREADY KNEW: Despite the barrage of jokes before I came here, nobody wants to cook Baldy. They sure place a priority on education. The baseball's pretty good. The U.S. public transportation systems suck compared to other countries. It sure is nice not to have to drive everywhere. Many Koreans want me to have a great impression of their country, and some don't want me here. Local cuisine sure is cheap -- and healthier than in the U.S. I'm addicted to my PlayStation2. When Koreans want to be somewhere, they just put their head down and go, no offense to anybody. WHAT I WANT TO KNOW ... The Hangul alphabet, by the end of May. How to use a rice cooker. Where to find a coffee grinder. Can I keep the weight off when I return to the States? ... AND DO: Attend a Korean wedding. Bring Baldy along on a trip outside of Daegu. Visit Japan, Thailand and the DMZ. Leave no stone unturned in Gyeongju. Learn Hapkido at the place down the street. Visit Woobang Tower Land and, against my better judgment, go to the top of the 202-meter (662-foot) tower. WHAT I'VE LEARNED: Thank you, excuse me, I'm sorry. Left, right, straight. You are leaving me. I am leaving you. Please get me this. Please take me there. This dog is a good dog. He doesn't bite. There are some exceptions in Hangul but not nearly as many as there are in English. Ramen noodles don't have to be "poor man's food" (and neither does Spam). Dunkin Donuts are more plentiful here than in Los Angeles. Actually, Dunkin Donuts are more plentiful in Incheon International Airport than they are in Los Angeles. The Bruins actually have a shot, don't they? Baldy misses dog parks and playing with dogs who want to play with him. Coffee shops here do not open until 11 a.m. One of the coolest cities in South Korea is one I never heard of (Gyeongju) before I came here. I'm still getting used to the ups and downs of teaching: Sometimes the kids are attentive and industrious, other times they'd rather be playing computer games, sometimes that varies from class to class, and sometimes that happens in the same class. Koreans kids are obsessed with "dung" and death. You don't need to apply for a Stafford loan to attend a pro sporting event here. Putting your trash streetside is normal. So is parking on sidewalks. Many Koreans hate the Japanese more than they hate North Koreans; in fact, they don't hate North Koreans. They want unification. "Hof" means "we sell beer here." Drunken behavior, as long as nothing is broken, is not frowned upon here. Korean pop: Pretty catchy, but is anyone older than 19 allowed to have a hit song? I made the right decision by coming here.
Did I forget anything? Or should I have learned more? Don't worry ... there's still time. Meanwhile, email me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. APRIL 27: THE "HISTOROPOLIS" OF GYEONGJU With its rich history dating back to Asia's longest consecutively run dynasty, the city of Gyeongju is known throughout South Korea as the "Museum Without Walls." An acquaintance at a party last weekend referred to the place as a "Historopolis," and I must admit I like that one better. Sounds like a George Clinton album. In a nutshell, the Silla Dynasty ruled for 992 years, ending in 957 AD. Gyeongju became the hub of Korean culture and politics by the mid-7th century -- at least that's what Wikipedia says, and we all know Wikipedia is never wrong. So while Seoul and Busan remain the sexy places for tourists, no trip to Korea is complete without visiting Gyeongju. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'm lucky enough to have friends in Gyeongju, and I manage their soccer team (now 0-5 after a tough-to-swallow 6-4 loss Sunday). But last week was the first time I went out of my way to visit some of the historical sites. First up was Daeneungwon, or, more simply, the tomb park. There are 30 tombs here of Silla rulers. Most hill-shaped tombs are wood-lined chambers covered in boulders and earth, and they really are beautiful to look at, even when you realize that there are milleniums-old dead people in there.
After walking through the tomb park, and enjoying a cafe mocha at a below-the-radar coffee shop with a low ceiling and warm service, I was off to the public park with my tour guide, the noted "Guvnor" Steve Moore. The park has more tombs, as well as a pretty meadow and, of course, another National Treasure:
That's the Cheomseongdae observatory, which according to the official South Korean tourism Web site is the oldest existing astronomical observatory in Asia. Its 362 stones (on 27 levels) represents the number of days in a lunar year. Built over 15 years, and finished in 647 AD, it was used for observing the stars in order to forecast the weather. This stone structure is a combination of straight lines and curves, and was designated as the country's 31st National Treasure in 1962. Here's the observatory in the context of its placement in the park:
I'll be returning to Gyeongju many more times, so I'll post more when I see more. To see more photos from this trip to Gyeongju, click here. Cho-un gae update: I posted two days ago about how I have (belatedly) learned how to tell Koreans that Baldy is a nice dog who does not bite. Since I learned the phrases, I have rehearsed them to myself as I walked Baldy -- but upon seeing a kid, I'd look into his or her wide eyes and say, "Um, wait, um ..." And by the time I recited the phrase, I lost the kid. There was no chance. Well, tonight, as I walked Baldy, I saw a mother and two children. I uttered both phrases perfectly. She smiled and spoke to me in more Korean, to which I just sighed and said mian hamnida (I'm sorry). But my confidently delivered reassurances about Baldy worked, and before I knew it the son and mother were petting Baldy. Upon relaying this story to a friend, she responded: "Learning to speak Korean in Korea helps. Imagine that." Oh, pish. Questions or comments? Email me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. APRIL 26: FOWL VENDORS AND OTHER OBSERVATIONS I caught my second Samsung Lions baseball game earlier today (technically yesterday, this being past midnight Korea time), and while it was not quite as awesome as a certain other contest in Fenway on Friday night, the Lions' 2-1 loss to the Kia Tigers was entertaining. Kia's starter took a no-hitter into the seventh inning, yet the Lions tied the game 1-1. Kia took a one-run lead in the ninth, and Samsung answered by advancing the potential tying and winning runs to third and second with one out, only to leave them stranded. But enough play-by-play hoo-hah. Let's hit the street outside the stadium before the game. Now, I know in the States that there are vendors hawking their wares. But they just seem doubly annoying here. U.S. vendors call out what they're selling. Korean vendors scream, beckon and plead for you to come over and taste their heart attack-inducing, artery-clogging and not-tasty-enough-to-justify-the health-risk fried chicken1, as if they're facing deportation to North Korea if they don't hit their sales quota. I taped the scene outside. You'll get a better understanding of the vendors' desperation about halfway through this 36-second video: 1Todd, a Korean-American I met at the game, told me that Koreans use the word "chicken" when they are referring to fried chicken. Any other kind of chicken is referred to by the Korean translation, which is something I forgot. It speaks to the larger point of Koreans using the English word when the word or phrase is not distinctly Korean -- hence, when you watch Korean baseball games on TV, the announcers will use the terms "one out" and "two out" even though there obviously are words for "one," "two" and "out" in the Korean language.Other notes from the game: They play differently over here, Part I: A Samsung Lions player advanced from first base to third on a sacrifice bunt. They play differently over here, Part II: A Samsung Lions player tried to advance from first to second on a fly out to left field. He was out. They play differently over here, Part III: Kia's manager changed pitchers in the eighth inning during the at-bat -- with the count at 2-2. The batter drew a walk on two pitches. They play differently over here, Part IV: Kia's manager changed pitchers in the ninth inning during the at-bat -- with the count at 2-2. The batter drew a walk on three pitches (fouling off a 3-2 pitch). Look down, dummy: The purpose of the warning track being dirt at Major League Baseball parks is to let the outfielder know he's getting closer to the wall without having to take his eye off the ball. In Daegu, the warning track is the color of dirt, but it's still turf ...
I guess they have to look down. Still, in my small sampling of watching Korean baseball, the outfielders are as good if not better than what we see in Major League Baseball, at least in terms of playing the angles and throwing the ball accurately and to the right people. Just a photo: I took this when the sun broke through during the early evening:
And finally ... World's cutest baseball player update: This has nothing to do with baseball in Korea, but this weekend, my younger niece, Sarah Zinn, had her first day of T-ball in Keene, N.H.:
Questions or comments? Email me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. To read about my visit to the Samsung Lions' season opener, click here. APRIL 25: I DISCOVERED YESTERDAY THAT BALDY IS GAE There are many ways to look at yesterday's 45-minute sojourn to At Home, the best coffee shop in Daegu, and not just because Baldy gets to sit on the patio while I drink free drip coffee or tea. I met two Koreans who not only were unafraid of the world's cutest Corgi mix, but they actively demanded to pet him, feed him and hold his leash. I experienced another encounter that proved the best parts about a journey like this comes with the random encounters you don't plan. But most of all, I actively learned two key Korean phrases. And given that I have been here (holy crap) five months and 28 days, I can honestly say, with utter honesty and introspection, that I should have learned them five months and 28 days ago. I can now tell Koreans that Baldy is a good dog, and that he doesn't bite. For this, I can thank a Korean university student and her friend, neither of whom wanted to be photographed. In lieu of their picture, I have replaced it with the crucial piece of paper that will spread the love throughout Siji:
Here's how it started: I arrived at At Home planning to do some work on my original TV script. The only outdoor table, with room for three, was occupied by two women. They immediately went after the adorable guy walking toward them -- and Baldy sure appreciated the attention. I asked if I could join them, and one of the women volunteered to hold Baldy's leash as I ordered inside. We made the usual small talk, and I learned that one of the women actually attended Yale -- the school that employs me now -- about five years ago. But mostly, they just tried to lure Baldy's attention from me, no easy feat considering I was eating a bagel. Their affection for Baldy prompted me to ask the big question: How do I tell Koreans that Baldy's a cool dog? This isn't just for vanity purposes, although it sucks to walk through a park and have people avoid me and Baldy. This is for Baldy too. Most of the dogs here are toys, and their owners think Baldy's going to eat them whole. Of every 10 smaller dogs Baldy and I encounter, nine want no part of Baldy, who no doubt misses dog parks and the late-night streets of Van Nuys right about now. So here are the phrases, and I make no promises about the correct spelling: Ee gae nun cho un gae inmida = "This dog is a good dog." Mul gi an ay yo = "No bite!" Having accomplished the mission, not to mention the bagel, tea and the two bags of pretzels (mostly Baldy's doing on the latter), I left At Home prepared to show off my knowledge. I walked past an elementary school-aged boy, who stared at me as I fumbled my notepad and said, and I quote directly: "Um, wait, mul gi an ay yo." And, naturally, the boy walked away.
Can you tell me how to ask for a Red Sox score in Korean? Whether you can or can't, feel free to send me a message here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. Regardless of how many buses I ride, cities I visit or National Treasures I see, this trip to South Korea will, in the end, be defined by the people I meet. So allow me to introduce you to a group of people I'll never forget: the mighty Marauders of Gyeongju FC. We have no wins and four losses. We've been outscored 28-6. And there is no other group of guys I'd like to spend my weekends getting the crap kicked out of me with, because one of these days, we're going to win with a group of guys I enjoy meeting up with every week.
But to appreciate Saturday night, you should know where we started. I began training with FC Daegu because I wanted to play. In February, FC Daegu played a bunch of guys from Gyeongju in a friendly. Gyeongju FC had yet to exist. Because they needed players, and I wanted playing time, I joined Gyeongju. That night, their ringleader, Steven Moore, asked me to be the manager. They wanted to play, he told me, but nobody wanted the crap duties. And I, of course, did. And every time I bitch about lining up a field or worrying about the best starting eleven (or any eleven, for that matter), Steve tells me, "You love it, don't you?" And of course, I do.
The next week, I met the players at our practice on a dirt field behind an elementary school. The next week, we played FC Daegu again. We lost 9-0. We later opened against DMZ Football, a team based in Busan. Drilled 9-0. Later that night our goalkeeper texted me the news that he tore muscles in his finger. He'd be out two months. I'd be in goal. Two weeks later we faced Daegu United, a military team. Despite playing a man down we lost 4-2. This was followed by an 11-2 loss to last season's runner-up (Daegu Devils) and another week where only five players said they could commit. I had to ask the league to reschedule. I came close to quitting, but I'm glad I didn't, because Saturday night happened.
We trailed 3-1, then played an even second half. Thanks in part to the soju and rice cake festival held in the park, we provided quite the atmosphere. Our players' co-workers, bosses and even a student or two showed up. We had friends, girlfriends, wives and strangers watch us play our best game of the season. I could hear our fans cheer as I (rather luckily) saved a header attempt by pinning the ball against the crossbar. Earlier in the game a shot rang off the post, then my leg, and in. The life of a keeper. It's determined by inches, I tell you.
So how is everyone responding to our 0-4 start? Our Facebook page has 105 members. We have added two players with U.S. college experience to join our motley band of fellas who are mainly just looking for exercise and a chance to meet new people. Many of our guys are playing in their first adult league. On the other end of the spectrum, our captain, Steve "The Guvnor" Moore, played in the first round proper of the FA Cup. We have established traditions, like the awarding of the "Shiny Shoes" to the man of the match, and Steve's colorful "Captain's Corner" posted on our Facebook page every week.
Gyeongju, Gyeongju, half time drink is Soju/Gyeongju, Gyeongju, followed by a Maekchu/Gyeongju, Gyeongju, chances are we're gonna lose/Gyeongju, Gyeongju no matter what we're on the booze. Arrogant blogger gets what he deserves update: In my previous post about Gyeonggye Stream, I rather humbly pointed out that a 10-meter stream, converted for "you non-metric people," was 6 miles. Never one to let family stand in the way of a good public flogging, my sister, Beth Zinn, chimed in on the blog's Facebook page: I just want to point out that even the metric illiterate can tell that 10 meters is not 6 miles! Nice try though brother! I believe you meant KILOmeters there :) Indeed I did. The stream is 10.92 kilometers long and has been updated. Did my sister just teach me a lesson? I don't think so either. Find another way to embarrass me by emailing me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. APRIL 21: ANNOYING PUNCTUATION NOTE The server that hosts this Web site has made some improvements for me, the user. But the change has made it annoying for you, the reader. Because I have written many posts in Microsoft Word before transferring the words to my server, there are many marks that have not translated well. So in many posts, apostrophes, quotation marks and long dashes show up as nonsense -- as opposed to the words that I write, which are ... um ... I'll fix the marks in due time, But not this morning. It's 3:27. Thank you in advance for your patience, real or otherwise. UPDATE: The funky punctuation for April's entries has been fixed. On to March ... APRIL 21: SEOUL DAY TRIP: CHEONGGYE STREAM On April 11, Your Humble Yet Rather Annoying Blogger embarked on a day trip to Seoul, courtesy of the KTX high-speed train that tops out at more than 300 kilometers (187 miles) per hour. I had enough time to visit three attractions: the War Memorial of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace/Palace Museum, and Cheonggye Stream. On April 18, you asked, "So when the hell will you post part three of this series?" On April 20, I received your message, which traveled to me by unicorn. And today, I decided to post. The Stream crosses downtown Seoul and is both artificially and naturally made (just like Alex Rodriguez). It's 10.92 kilometers long (about 6.8 miles for you non-metric people), and I walked just about all of it. Or so I thought. After more than 45 minutes, I climbed the steps satisfied that I had approached the last fountain. I looked up, saw the fashion district, consulted my pamphlet, and realized that I barely had done half of it. So much for seeing the Wall of Hope and its 200,000 signatures. I started at Cheonggye Plaza, enjoyed the waterfall and immediately took note of the colorful sculptures that rose from the middle of the stream. The scene called for a video, and luckily for you, I have complied. Keep your eyes peeled for the boy in the yellow jacket who takes a running leap into the stream1.
1Sucker. The walk, while boring at times, did provide some nice people-watching moments and an overall, relaxed kind of buzz -- the kind where you feel you're in the middle of something busy but you're not rushed. Buildings towered on either side of the stream. Couples walked, parents led their children across the water, older men and women exercised. I saw paintings, drawings and signatures. In other words, enough of this drivel and let's get to the photos already, starting with these sculptures from the first kilometer of the stream:
World's cutest nieces update: My sister sent me an email a few days ago that showed my Goddaughter, Katelyn Zinn, in the local paper back home in Keene, N.H. Here she is playing "Amazing Grace," forcing my mom to cry. Sorry Mom, had to say it ...
Blog update: I spent the weekend in the "historopolis" (not my words, though I wish they were) of Gyeongju, playing soccer and exploring some of the local landmarks that are among Korea's most famous. You will get to read about my trip to see the royal tombs and one of the world's oldest observatories soon. Have you ever made my mom cry? You bastard. Send me a note anyway by emailing me here, or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. To see photos from my December trip to Seoul, including one of a bacon cheeseburger, click here. APRIL 17: SEOUL DAY TRIP: GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE AND THE MUSEUM On April 11, Your Humble Yet Rather Annoying Blogger embarked on a day trip to Seoul, courtesy of the KTX high-speed train that tops out at more than 300 kilometers (187 miles) per hour. I had enough time to visit three attractions: the War Memorial of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace/Palace Museum, and Cheonggye Stream. Today, you will read about the trip to the palace, and the museum. To assure you that I had my priorities in order Saturday, I'll tell you about the very important errand I embarked upon after I visited the War Memorial. This being only my third trip to Seoul, and with six hours to go before the last KTX train left Seoul Station for Daegu, I knew I had to prioritize the rest of my day. I asked myself, "Why am I here? How do I make the most of this trip? What do I do to take advantage of the fact that I can have something unavailable to me in Daegu?" And with that, I decided to eat a chili cheeseburger. Guffaw if you must, but Richard Copycat's All-American Diner produces a burger unlike any in Daegu. It's eight ounces and topped with chili, mild jalapenos and American cheese -- the closest to a genuine, do-Southern-California-proud burger I have had in South Korea. So you get to see what I did: The view from the outside of Gyeongbokgung Palace, originally constructed in the late 14th century by King Taejo.
Luckily for me, the museum was still open. It's the 100th anniversary of the initial opening, so admission is free all year. The museum houses genuine artifacts, including 14 official National Treasures, a designation given to objects that are culturally significant to Korea. The thing about National Treasures is, there are many that you would just have no clue held such a designation unless you were told so. You may remember from my visit to Dongwhasa Temple that two very large stone flag supports were a National Treasure. Had my guide not told me, I would not have guessed. I would have said, "Hey, look at those useless stone things," and moved on. Instead, they're on this blog for posterity. For another example of what a National Treasure looks like, I present ...
This is a chart. You don't know this because the lighting sucks. But believe me, it's a constellation chart -- believed to be the second-oldest of its kind. The map was engraved in 1395, completed right around the same time that Gyeongbokgung opened. An identical constellation chart is on the other side -- upside-down. Each chart has 2,392 letters and 1,467 stars. I know this because I counted.1
Also in the museum:
My excuse to get Baldy in this blog entry: Wednesday, I bought Baldy six months' worth of heartworm and other parasite medication at a pet store inside E-Mart, which is Korea's answer to Wal-Mart. The vet speaks English and remembers Baldy's name, even though he's never met him. A cool feature about this store is they promise to send a text message to my cell phone when it's time for me to give Baldy the medicine, and that service is free. The vet asked if I wanted the notice in English, but I told him as long as "Baldy" is in English, the rest of the note can be in Hangul. I'll get it. Well, I got my reminder today, and it was all in English. Excellent stuff. Somewhat related fantasy sports note: My NBA fantasy team, the Czars of the Telestrator, finished second in my 11-team Yahoo! Sports league. I did all of my wheeling and dealing from South Korea. The Czars finished first in points, rebounds, assists and assist-turnover ratio; second in field-goal percentage; third in steals and fourth in blocks (thanks to the late-season additions of Joel Przybilla and dunk contest marvel Chris Andersen. So how come I didn't win? I was last in 3-pointers and turnovers, and in the bottom three in two other categories. But second is phenomenal for me, especially since I was last at one point in December. So thank you: Deron Williams, Rajon Rondo, Devin Harris, Derrick Rose, Hedo Turkoglu, Kevin Durant, LeBron James, Michael Beasley, David Lee, Chris Andersen, Joel Przybilla, Chris Kaman and Shaq. Like the blog? Hate it? Any questions? Send me a note here or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. APRIL 14: SEOUL DAY TRIP: WAR MEMORIAL OF KOREA On April 11, Your Humble Yet Rather Annoying Blogger embarked on a day trip to Seoul, courtesy of the KTX high-speed train that tops out at more than 300 kilometers (187 miles) per hour. I had enough time to visit three attractions: the War Memorial of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace/Palace Museum, and Cheonggye Stream. I also had a chili cheese burger, but alas, my application to make it a National Treasure fell on deaf ears. Nonetheless I have dusted myself off from this setback to present my first post from the trip: the War Memorial of Korea. Truth be told, this place should be called the Wars Memorial of Korea, because it covers the history of war on the peninsula, from the Three Kingdoms period to Silla's rule as the longest-running dynasty in Asia (992 years) to the Joseon Dynasty, which ended with the Japanese occupation in 1910. It also should be called a museum, because the place has tons of information. There are three rooms dedicated to the Korean Conflict, starting with the formation of the North Korean (Communist) and South Korean (Democratic) governments in 1948. South Koreans call this war the "6-25 War" after the date in 1950 when North Korea crossed the 38th parallel (an easy feat considering many South Korean soldiers were on short- and long-term vacations, according to the museum). I'm far from a war buff, so I'll let any further research come from your end. I have 53 pictures on file and I won't run them all here, so I will link to my Facebook page, which will have many of them, at the end of this post. Until then, enjoy:
The place is covered with airplanes, tanks, and artillery. Even so, the majestic presence of the Tower of the Korean War overshadows all of them. The tower's two main parts are the bronze sword and tree of life.
There are 38 statues on either side of the tower. They're called "Statues Defending the Fatherland."
The tower, with the accompanying statues and bowl, is one of several landmarks on the plaza. I've added some more, but to see everything check out the following links to read about other monuments and equipment used during the Korean Conflict and other wars.
A war buff could easily spend 90 minutes at the outdoor exhibition -- and even more time inside ...
The inside has memorial halls, head busts of war heroes, paintings, war uniforms, scale models, replica battlefields, more equipment, video, documents (including Japan's surrender forcing it to leave Korea in 1945), and other stuff that can't be covered in justice here. There's also a "war experience room" that includes the smell of gunpowder, but I didn't go in because there was a palace I wanted to hit before it closed (naturally, I was late and didn't get in). But I don't want to deny my loyal readers of at least a taste, so ...
To see more pictures from this trip, check out my photo album on Facebook. The public link is here. Like the blog? Hate it? Any questions? Send me a question here or leave a comment on the Mark Fitzhenry's "Korea Blogging!" page here. APRIL 13: A MUST-READ WASHINGTON POST STORY Here is a lede from a story published Sunday in The Washington Post: To flee North Korea and arrive in the rich, wired, consuming culture of South Korea is to feel clueless, fearful and guilty.
Teenagers are particularly bewildered. As part of the newest wave in a decade-old flow of defectors from the North, they arrive stunted from malnutrition and struggling to read. At the movies for the first time, they panic when the lights go down, afraid someone might kidnap them. They find it incredible that money is stored in plastic credit cards. Pizza, hot dogs and hamburgers -- staples of South Korean teen cuisine -- give them indigestion. One gargled with liquid fabric softener, mistaking it for mouthwash. In time, they wise up and their stomachs calm down. Their guilt, though, tends to fester. To read the rest of this eye-opener, click here.
I'd like to thank Len Hochberg, Self-publicity whore note: "Korea Blogging!" is now a Facebook group. If you sign up, I'll send you a message every time I post. I'll also post all of my photos there and encourage discussion and questions. If you are a Facebook friend of mine, I already have invited you. If you're on Facebook but not a friend of mine, you can join the group here. If you're not on Facebook, then I will politely ask you to join, but only after you finish your glass of New Coke. Weight update: I'm not where I want to be, but I am rather comfortable in saying that I am no longer a fat fuck. As I mentioned in a blog entry before I flew to South Korea, I gained quite a bit of weight when I lived in California. A steady diet of In 'N' Out, Five Guys and Carl's Jr. burgers will do that. When I arrived in Daegu and joined a gym, the scale showed that I weighed 98 kilograms. That's 216 pounds. Today, I weighed myself and rather enjoyed the news: just less than 203 pounds. A diet of pork and vegetables will do that. A tease for my next post: I plan on writing about my visit to the War Memorial of Korea in Seoul. Here's a picture to whet your appetite:
Why do I suck at Lexulous? Send me your theory about that, or anything else, by shipping me an email here.
Many Koreans are afraid of Baldy, who despite being only 25 pounds is the second-biggest dog in my neighborhood. But these two girls, upon seeing him today for one of his two daily walks, approached and asked to play with him. The girl on the left speaks English very well, the product of spending a year and a half in New Zealand just for that purpose. The girl on the right took the lead for playtime, holding Baldy's leash and searching for just the right twig for Baldy to chomp on. Speaking of which ...
Sometimes I forget that Baldy likes to eat everything that exists.
This is actually from November, during our first trip to Daegu Grand Park. I think I told him that Yankees fans read this blog, and he should say hello. Do you want to say hello back? You know what to do. Friday night and Saturday represented the best of times at our neighborhood's watering hole, In My Memory. The tables were brought together to accommodate large parties. The barstools were full. Customers stood because there was no room to sit, and besides, it's better to mingle as Friday night turns into Saturday morning, isn't it? As all of this happened, four words came to mind: Too little, too late. Nights like these at the place everyone calls IMM were too rare, which is why the owner, Lee Yoon Jung, decided that it's not going to be open anymore. I don't know the particulars -- I heard she's selling it, and who knows what'll become of it -- but the bottom line is the lack of customers over the past several months wasn't worth her being away from family. So, for all intents and purposes, it's ...
IMM was the site of two Christmas pot luck parties, a monthly open mike night, and an almost monthly pub quiz. Speaking of which, yours truly will go down in IMM history. Joe Buscemi, Thomas Finn, Derek Johnstone, Andrew Lancaster and I formed the second-to-last team to win the pub quiz -- which means we were the last team to create and run a pub quiz night, on Feb. 22, 2009. The final category ever handed out, as created by Joe, was "Know Your Dics," in which participants had to identify dictators based on their facial hair. You can read (and/or try) my category here. While not a weekly destination of mine, I did enjoy IMM and will miss the place. And so will Baldy.
"Are they gone already?" update: As far as I know, Derek and Joe left Daegu for the final time Saturday, each heading to Seoul for one more night of revelry. I wish both of them safe travels, as well as good luck when they inevitably form their own language school in which all elementary school students must sing "Subterranean Homesick Blues" just to gain entry. Special programming note: I returned a few hours ago from a day trip to Seoul. Keep your eyes on this space throughout the week for photos and notes aplenty from the War Memorial of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace (the outside of it, anyway) and "The Stream." So do you know your Oscars trivia or not? Tell me here. In November, I introduced you to a humble toast salesman who had a rather colorful way of practicing English. I ran into him last week in his downtown shop, and he assured me he was having sex every day. He then used some phrases I hadn't heard him speak before, some of which might actually be printable here if I remembered them. He informed me that he was rock hard. His abdomen, people. His abdomen. I asked for proof, and he gladly showed me:
I showed him the photo, and he politely informed me that I did not feature his abdomen enough. He demanded a close-up, and knowing that my readers back home would appreciate a blog entry that addresses such matters of international diplomacy, I agreed:
Random note not related at all to Korea: Headline seen on the Internet: "Playboy TV fined over explicit content." Boy, I'd love to hear the whistle-blower to the FCC on that one. "Hey, I just thought I'd drop y'all a tip that you might not be aware of. Playboy TV's got some explicit content." What does your abdomen look like? Would publishing a photo get me in trouble with the FCC? Let me know about that, or just ask any other questions you want, by emailing me here. I was surrounded by more than 20 well-wishers of varying degrees of sobriety two weeks ago. The occasion was a going-away party for two teachers. Equal parts curious and jealous, I asked one of the guests of honor, Derek Johnstone, what it was like to be so popular. His answer: "Ask Joe."
Joseph Buscemi was one popular dude. He hosted a Christmas Eve party -- and he's Jewish. All the foreign teachers came. At our Burns Supper, the host (Derek) entrusted Joe with the task of toasting the ladies -- no easy feat to be funny, poke fun at their flaws and not hurt their feelings. He did it with aplomb. He's a screenwriter, a photographer and a guitar player. Women swooned and laughed at his jokes. So did the men, for that matter. If he invited you to go somewhere to be with the gang, chances are you followed along. What a guy!
My signature Joe story isn't a rabble-rouser, but it does capture his essence rather well. On a December night in Seoul, on a long weekend I took by myself, I sat in an Irish bar when who walked in but Derek and Joe. Four hours and several diverse establishments later, we found ourselves in a pub with a Confederate flag and some Army dude looking to fight anyone with two legs. Joe took it upon himself to mosey to the computer and play DJ. Springsteen, Dylan, Elvis ... whatever you wanted, he played. Correction: Whatever he wanted, he played. But he made good choices. That was Joe: He rolls with whatever he's given and makes the most of it. I asked Joe to answer some questions about his experience. He provided answers. Some of them might even be serious. Why did you come here? I'm still trying to figure that part out. No, I wanted to go somewhere (home was boring me). My friend and I said: "Hey! Let's go to Korea (he was stationed there about 3 or 4 years ago with the army and liked it)." I said why not, he then replied with, "I can't go or my girlfriend will break up with me." I then made the notion, "Whatever dude, I'm going anyway." He said, "Fine," and here I am. A week after I arrived, his girlfriend broke up with him. What are your future plans? I am going to vacation in Japan and Thailand and then go home. After that I don't have a plan. Maybe sell hand jobs for ham sandwiches. (EDITOR'S NOTE: Joe was back in New York in mid-April.) Name something (or things) you're proud of doing during your time here that you could not have done anywhere else. Teaching children. Nowhere else in the world is that desperate to learn English. What was the most pleasant surprise about Korea? I'm hoping to locate that in Japan. What was the least pleasant surprise about Korea? How even though I state I hate Korea, I'm really going to miss the stupid place. What does Korea do well that the rest of the world should pick up on? There are two things: 1) having such a low crime rate and 2) having such a low divorce rate. I don't know if the rest of the world (I'm referring to the U.S. -- ethnocentricity anyone?) could pick up on that. You will miss ... I have to agree with Derek. Some people are assholes, like the grandfather and grandson I got into an altercation with in Busan, but most Korean people are really nice, friendly and helpful if you give them a chance. I will really miss them, and my school friends and the students. You won't miss ... Can't agree with Derek. Love the kimchi. It cures cancer, you know. Oh yeah, and the common cold, the flu, stomach viruses, and the HIV. I, however, won't miss the feeling of stagnation. Did it feel like a year? At some points it did, at others it didn't. To close this tribute, I have a very special video. Joe and I made a habit of kicking off our Nuri Bang (singing room) sessions with "Born To Run." However, no video exists of such a performance -- until now! Ladies and gentlemen, you can view undoctored and authentic footage of Joe and I singing "Born To Run" on March 25, 2009 by clicking here:
Do you have a witty remark that belongs here? Send it to me here. APRIL 7: BY REQUEST: FOREIGN BASEBALL PLAYERS IN KOREA Astute reader and fellow American University alumn Dave Heller read my post about the Samsung Lions opener and asked if I knew which American players were on a Korean Baseball Organization roster this season. Here's a (not-guaranteed-to-be-complete) list of every foreign player in the KBO (teams are allowed two), along with a link to their page at baseballreference.com.
Special thanks to the work of Matthew Dewoskin, whose Baseball Digest blog entry that previewed the season made it hopelessly easy to put this list together. UPDATE: If you want to read about Korean baseball from a player's perspective, I suggest you bookmark C.J. Nitkowski's blog. Nitkowski is a starting pitcher for the two-time defending champion SK Wyverns -- his 17th professional team. He's also playing for his 31st manager, a list that includes World Series title-winning skippers (Sparky Anderson, Joe Torre, Davey Johnson, Bobby Cox), legendary power hitters (Frank Robinson, Sadaharu Oh), the double-play combo for the 1979 World Series champion Pirates (Tim Foli and Phil Garner) and a guy with an expletive for a middle name (Bucky Dent). He also started blogging before many people knew what a blog was. So check it out. I'll leave you with Garcia (and the Giants' crazy fans) in action: APRIL 7: I THINK I'LL HAVE A V5 Your humble correspondent kicked back on Saturday afternoon and enjoyed the sound of drums and the sight of cheerleaders. If you just said, "Oh, so you watched baseball live in South Korea, huh?" then you're correct! Daegu's club, the Samsung Lions, played their Korean Baseball Organization opener against the LG Twins. They won, 6-2, but only after their closer walked the bases loaded and brought the tying run to the plate before he recorded a strikeout looking. I patiently waited for the sound system to blare "Dirty Water," but I was let down. At least I didn't have to watch Steve Phillips on Baseball Tonight afterward. At the core, there aren't many differences between watching pro baseball in South Korea and in the U.S. They played nine innings. Managers emptied their bullpens, seeking the perfect matchup. I heard pop music between innings, watched in horror as the "Kiss Cam" played on the big screen and refused to participate in the wave. But there are differences, and I will hit on those in a minute. But first, the pregame festivities.
I don't know for sure what the V5 stands for, but my most educated guess, done with the help of one of my students, is that the Lions are chasing their fifth Korean Series championship. When I walked into Daegu Baseball Stadium -- yes, I believe that's all it's called -- I was greeted by that balloon display. Shortly after a string of announcements I did not understand -- the nerve of these people, speaking in their native language -- the balloons flew into the sky, fireworks jettisoned from the scoreboard and fans threw blue paper airplanes. I did not know this was going to happen, so I did not capture it on film. I wish I had. However, once we found our seats, I took this panoramic video. The sound isn't the best, but basically, they are announcing the starting lineup. I also make the point that there are no ushers to help people find seating in the general admission areas -- and by general admission, I mean everything except three sections behind and around home plate. The ticket price: 6,000 won (essentially $6). My two cohorts and I walked along the back row of the outfield seats from right field to left, a string of other fans was doing the same from left to right. We found seats in right field. The two friends with me are fellow teachers Ty and Tom, both from Canada. Ty follows the Blue Jays and worked at SkyDome/Rogers Center; Tom is just learning and playing softball in a local league for the first time.Now I'll shift some gears and shed light on some of the differences between the Korean and American baseball experiences: 1. Did you just say your team was the Samsung Lions? Yes. Seven of the eight Korean teams are identified by the corporation that owns them:
I'm already onto your next question. "Fitzy, who is supposed to win the league this year?" I have your answer from a blog posting here. FYI, the Lions are one of only two teams who have not changed their name since the inaugural season in 1982. 2. Cheerleaders. Oddly enough, they add to the game, not detract from it. I don't know why, because if the Red Sox ever employed them I'd go ballistic. But they seem to work here. Don't shoot me, Jeff. It was downright entertaining to see their Supremes-like choreography as the crowd sang a cheer to the tune of "Clementine." I don't have any footage of them, because they spent game on a riser down the left-field line and I was in right field, but I have linked to a photo here, video of them dancing onstage here, and video of them during a game here. 3. Swing and a miss ... on the ceremonial first pitch. Yes, the Twins' leadoff hitter took a meager swing as someone threw out the ceremonial first pitch. Cool touch. Good thing the leadoff batter wasn't Paul O'Neill; he would have drilled a triple to the gap and spiked the Lions' third baseman. And I say that out of love. 4. My jersey cost 38 bucks. So if anyone wants a baseball jersey at bargain prices, come to Korea. You'll save a hundred bucks or two, although I suppose the cost of a plane ticket may mitigate those savings.
5. The sixth-inning stretch. And the best part is, the fans don't stretch. The players do. They jog onto the field and stretch as the grounds crew works on the home plate area.
And, of course, one of the four mascots drove a lap.
6. The slow-motion wave. When the wave initially made its way around, I just shook my head. "Oh no, not here." And then, the second or third time around, the wave hit slow motion. Fans took their time standing up and sitting down. And you know what? It worked. Clearly it's old hat here. Unfortunately I was visiting some other people so my camera and I were about two sections apart. I didn't capture it on video. I guarantee it won't happen again. 7. The two-minute warning. It's not really called that, but in the upper-right corner of the big video screen in center field, there's a clock showing how much time is left in between innings. And other than the start of the sixth, the interval is always two minutes.
8. The cost of beer. It's $2 per can. At every pro sporting event in the U.S., the foam is more expensive than that. 9. And finally ... did I mention no Steve Phillips? BONUS PICTURES: Two photos that will not disprove my sweeping-yet-accurate generality that all Korean children are adorable.
What did I miss? Or are you just glad that the missile didn't hit my apartment building? Either way send me an email here. APRIL 3: THIS DOESN'T SEEM RIGHT There's an immense desire to learn English in South Korea, and it is passed down not only by the government but the parents who spend hard-earned money, even in a recession, to send their children to hagwons (private schools) like the one that hired me. More South Koreans take the TOEFL (Test of English as a Foreign Language) than people from any other country. So imagine my surprise when I saw this article in the Korea Times. I'll summarize it for you here:
Their overall TOEFL score of 78 is below the world average (79). South Koreans scored above the world average in reading, but below the world average in listening and writing. South Koreans' speaking proficiency ranked 136th out of 161 nations. I don't know why these results are this way. Perhaps it's because so many people take the test and thus there are bound to be bad scores. Still, it's an eye-opener for a country that, according to the article, annually spends 15 trillion won (or $150 billion given the base currency in which 1,000 won=1 U.S. dollar) in English education. I am genuinely shocked. South Koreans are serious about their education and their intentions are good. But these results are a stunner. I have no explanation, other than I should do a better job. Or maybe we just need a new training video: UPDATE I: I spoke to a veteran teacher here about the article. Based on his reaction, my point about the high number of people who take the test may explain one reason for the below-average scores. South Korea has the 24th-largest population among non-English-speaking countries, yet it has the most TOEFL takers. The colleague I spoke to told me that many Koreans who take the TOEFL probably have no business taking the TOEFL. For example, middle school students take courses geared toward scoring well in the TOEFL, even though the exam's primary use is a gauge to see if you're ready to attend a top university. So Koreans may be taking it as practice, just to see how they measure up, as opposed to when they are truly prepared to take the exam. That context, my colleague said, was missing from the article -- and thus missing from my initial blog post. UPDATE II: An instructor I know, who is not only a world traveler but a certified TOEFL instructor, commented on the Korea Times' site. Problem is, space was limited there. Not here. So here are her thoughts, with no space limitations: "I am a TOEFL instructor in the United States. Having taught in South Korea among other places, this finding doesn't surprise me. While Korean students are among the most motivated to get a high score, they also seem to cling to their bad habits more staunchly than any other language group. "I have also noticed that Korean students are among the youngest in my classes, starting their studies as teenagers. The TOEFL is a test that requires a certain degree of maturity, and life experience, something that many Korean test takers seem to lack in their insular, coddled yet high-pressure lives. For example, it's hard to imagine how tides behave when you've never been to the beach. Thus, many Asian students must rely solely on the test prompts to answer a question on say "tides," whereas a German test taker has probably traversed the world several times before they could walk and therefore knows about certain topics instinctively. European education philosophy differs in that it requires and rewards critical thinking. "Additionally, Asians seem to view education in much the same way as Americans: as a buffet where you just take what you think you will need. And the topics you need to be at least remotely familiar with for the TOEFL are somewhat far-reaching and unpredictable. "That being said, I don't think the quality of Korean education should shoulder the blame independently, but rather have a look at their lifestyle and the ridiculous expectation their parents set for them. A day at play can be the best way to learn. Americans know this, but really only Europeans practice this and clearly, Asian countries, especially Koreans haven't gotten the memo! "I agree that schools should consider hiring non-natives in conjunction with native speakers; clearly we as natives aren't producing the desired result on our own. Often non-native speakers are the best grammar teachers anyway. In response to another previous admission about bad hagwons -- yes, clearly many programs do not give their foreign teaching staff due respect, and that is the surest way to increase the proliferation of sub-par TOEFL scores." On a happier note, it's been a fantastic few weeks for South Korean athletes. Figure skater Kim Yu-Na is a world champion, the baseball team finished second in the World Baseball Classic, and the men's soccer team beat North Korea on Wednesday to take the lead in its qualifying group for the 2010 World Cup. (For the record, the North Korean coach's griping about food poisoning sounds like sour grapes -- or would they be moldy grapes? -- but his complaint about his team's possible goal is legit. I thought it was in when it happened. Replays were inconclusive.) Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Send me an email here. APRIL 3: A SENSE OF CLOSURE, FUR SURE Silly you -- you believed the saying "what comes around, goes around" applies only to people (or, more specifically, the 2007 Patriots). The saying also applies to a harmless and downright cuddly piece of fur, which was put in its proper resting place in the early morning hours of April 2. Why, yes, of course I will continue. The story begins on December 20, when nine Yale teachers arrived at Commune's for their post-Christmas party Christmas party. A lonely fur hung on the street-level door. Lia Ortiz-Koons found it, but Derek Johnstone, never one to turn down an excuse for a conversation, wore the fur around his neck for the rest of the night. (You can see him wearing the fur in my farewell post to him. I never knew a fur was the perfect accessory to a vintage Hungary football jersey, but damn if Derek didn't pull it off.)
Derek kept the fur in his apartment ("in a lump of cheese in a bowl of water," he said) and did not wear it again until Wednesday night, 102 days later, when some of us gathered for a night of German beer and general revelry at the Ariana Hotel, followed by a nightcap at Commune's.
Long story short, when Joe, Lia, Derek and I left Commune's, we decided that the fur should return from whence it came. So shortly before 1 a.m. on April 2, Derek draped the fur on a door handle in downtown Daegu, just up the steps from Commune's. And today, it no doubt rests in peace, although around whose neck or in whose lump of cheese I have no idea. You're wearing the fur right now, aren't you? Just admit it by emailing me here. I won't tell anyone. |
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We held our home opener on Saturday and lost 4-2 to FC Daegu, one of three teams from South Korea's third-largest city in the 
Hopefully I'll find a fun way to have you get to know the lads a little better. But I have let this blog go for too long without properly introducing you to the mighty Marauders of Gyeongju FC. I'll close by sharing the first verse of the team hymn, penned by Steve Moore and sung by ... nobody. Maybe in due time we'll hold our scarves (or Nicole's pom-poms) high and belt out this number before our games:
This decision was incredibly important, because after I ate this burger, strolled down Itaewon, perused the booths, bought a new keychain the shape of a Korean drum, walked down the subway steps, transferred lines, got out, found the proper exit, stood in awe of the largest palace in Seoul, had my picture taken with a Korean girl who said she had to do it for a project or something, and approached the ticket booth, I learned that the palace stopped admitting customers about 20 minutes earlier.
